The French Armed Merchant "Phoque à capuchon"

 

The "Phoque A' Capuchon" or the Hooded Seal in English, is a heavy armed merchantman fresh to the West Indies trade route. Captained by Pierre Le Fue; a short man, shorter on temperament and, exhausted of patience or tolerance for savages of the Caribbean. Seemingly his reference to the English. Pierre refuses to take on crew not fluent in the only language fit for business: Langue française, and will not speak directly to any one not using his native tongue. Some speculate, other witnessed, many share the story of his violent outburst at the slips of Port Manteau when he flailed a harbor master for addressing him as "Peter Le Fue" Captain of the " Fuc' a Capuch'n". Since then the first mate, fluent in 17 different dialects acts as a translator, sometimes even in the port of Martinique where they speak French, but not to the satisfaction of Pierre.    

The Phoque runs laden with cannon, and the order's to "Fue" rings out more often than the crew would prefer, sometimes even in port. Most of the seasoned crew wait for orders to filter through the officers before taking action. No Phoque, n'est-ce pas? 

 

The Hooded Seal

   

Fort-Nicanville gets a new domestic battery

Fire Lock Games Stone Tower

 

Fort Nicanville, considered a push over by most scalawags of the Caribbean has had a sorted past with some of the more colorful and eccentric entrepreneurs (Pirates & Smugglers) in the crystal blue waters of the Lesser Antilles. With a shallow harbor and windward island side location, trouble often is in town before anyone even realizes a ship sailed into the harbor. This has lead to a greater leniency to the customs and regulations of trade on the docks. Over the past 15 years the subsequent governors have set tariff to fund a harbor defense. In the beginning, colloquially called the Gov'nr's Cut, seem to mostly get channeled into a "Just in case we need a Ransom Fund", but surprisingly grew into a coffer as the expectations of a bastion laden fortress slowly and un-enthusiastically shrank to meet budget. Now nothing like the colossus of Rhodes, the French harbor battery emblazoned with the King's royal crest stands to thwart an angry fisherman or perhaps those Portuguese smugglers that insist of defecating on the wharf.                       

A pelican brief-ly on the docks.

New Island locations

 

I'm developing at least two new locations for the Twisted-Lords Convention in Oklahoma City this summer. The Spanish main and a Garifuna settlement, the later components to that location pictured in this post. This is not the finished Island but some of the models surrounding the island that will be thick with a mangrove growth preventing encroachment of the empires of the old world.

 

Styrene Plastic Sails

 Tutorial for making polystyrene sails. 

Why Polystyrene? 

Sails on a model ship for gaming need to have the following qualities:

• Moisture resistant.
  
• Durable and damage resistant.
• easily repairable at or between games.
  
• readily available material.
  
• Takes paint and stain well.
• Light enough to not pull down spars and rigging.
  

 

 Materials needed:

1. Polystyrene sheets: .005" or .13mm thick. (Evergreen scale Models, stock # 9009.)
2.  Polystyrene Strips:  .010 X .030 X 14 inches (Evergreen scale Models, stock #6-101)
3. Polystyrene Strips: .010 X .188 X 14 inches (Evergreen scale Models, stock #6-108)

Belaying Pins and rack. DIY

 

Making belaying pins seems like a lot of work when so many companies out there still offer little bags of them on the web. But when your decking out a Spanish Galleon, 6th rate frigate or a Man of war the expense can become unreasonable for a navy on a budget. 

What you need:

1. Box of round cocktail toothpicks
2. Hobby Miter-Box & Saw 
3. Pencil 
4. Round hobby file
5. Pin-vice & bit (not larger than full thickness of tooth pick)
   
6. Square Dowel  
7. Sand paper 
8. CA Glue

Use pencil to mark 2 of more holes in your square dowel. Then drill them out with a small pin-vice to make pilot holes for your rack.

Using a larger pin-vice bit, widen the holes to accommodate the end of the cocktail sticks.

 

 

 

 this can also be done with the round hobby file

 (Caution if you use the larger pin-vice first the square dowel will split, a little CA glue on the end can remedy this.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

Cut Rack from end of square dowel

Insert Cocktail sticks in pin-rack. Mark with pencil a circular ring on pin.

Cocktail Sticks

Remove from rack.

Use a round File

File a divot in the cocktail stick completely around the circumference just above the line.

Example of finished end.

Cut off end.

Sand off edges of rack. Insert Pins. 

 I don't glue the pins in until the final touches of the ship's completion. The reason is if you want to secure lines to the pins and make sure the line stays taunt it is much easier to adjust the line by gluing to the pin then putting it in the rack, rather than adjusting the line behind a secured pin.  

 

Dead Eyes, by hand.

This is a section I wanted to make to help out the like minded frugal ship modelers out there. By no means is this a proper tutorial of rigging. Model ship builders would be appalled by my decorative attempts to fancy up my gaming models to meet the historical accuracy of their meticulous work, but for gamers it is a way to make their models look better without spending a lot of money. 

 

 

Making Dead Eyes is really easy.    

What you need:

1. Dowel Rod
2. Pin-vise Drill    
3. Hobby Miter box & Saw
4. Sand paper
5. Pencil 

Mark 3 dots on the end of a dowel rod.

Use a Pin-Vice to drill holes. The deeper you drill the more dead-eyes you can make.

 

Put in Miter-Box

Slice like Pepperoni

Lightly Sand

 

Make more than you need, they are prone to break and you can save what ever you use for other boats or flotsam & debris. 

There is a reason I didn't specify the bit size or dowel rod diameter. That is a matter of scale and visual appeal to the game modeler.